I like to eat out. I guess that's pretty obvious. Dining with a capital "D" is a consuming adventure where I dissect every fine-tuned nuance of food, service and ambience.

A less obvious, but equally vital pleasure is simply grabbing a quick bite to eat. After sampling a few too many three-hour meals involving bank-breaking New American entrees, I want to sip soup and let my mind wander. I need a place that makes fewer demands on me.

I like the Bagel Deli and Restaurant because I feel at home. It restores balance - not to mention reality - to my culinary universe... Family and historic photos fill the walls, and wise-cracking Joe Kaplan, who co-owns the Bagel Deli with his wife, Rhoda Kaplan, usually mans the register.

The family affair includes staffers who have been there forever so it's not surprising that several generations of Denverites have felt welcome. The menu is so familiar, so packed with well-made comfort foods you can order without looking at it.

Case in point is the authentic New York-style toasted bagel with cream cheese...

...to read the rest of this review, you'll just have to come in and check it out.